A Local’s Guide to Toronto

Toronto is hot right now. Locals have long known that New York’s little sister to the north has plenty to offer when it comes to quality of life: green space, walkability, and an overall friendly vibe among residents. Over the past few years, it’s become more than just a great place to live, but a great weekend destination, too. With the new Ace Hotel, a world-class film festival (whose latest edition opens this week), and the fact it’s merely an hour’s flight from New York, D.C., and Boston, there has never been a better time to visit. Oh, and pack sneakers: the best way to experience the city is always on foot.

Here are some tips to get you started—you won’t leave hungry, that’s for sure.

Where to Stay

If you’re looking for a local, off-the-beaten-path experience, The Drake is a perfect option. Located on the ultra-hip Queen West, you’ll be right in the heart of some of the city’s best restaurants, independent boutiques, and galleries. Having undergone a renovation in 2022 doubling its room count to 51 and overhauling the lobby, The Drake’s personal touch feels stronger than ever. If the weather’s nice, grab a cocktail in the Sky Yard or on the streetside patio: it’s a quintessential Toronto experience.

For the most insidery version of Toronto, check in to Dundas West’s Ode—it’s the city’s best-kept secret. At Canada’s only Black-owned and operated hotel they’ve made an effort to partner with local artists by hanging original pieces in each of the eight rooms. You won’t find anything cookie-cutter here, as they pride themselves on being the antithesis of a hotel chain: Ode has done away with amenities in favor of recommending neighborhood spots for the experience instead.

Not too far from Ace, you’ll find the sustainably-minded (yet still luxurious) 1 Hotel. The eco focus is evident through its many plants, in-house compositing program, and a restaurant that sources produce locally. Design-wise you’ll feel immediately at ease, with plenty of soft light, reclaimed wood, and a delicate color palette. Ask for a room on a higher floor with a Lake Ontario view, or sneak up to the rooftop for a swim at the pool reserved exclusively for hotel guests.

One of the most exciting openings of 2022 was the city’s first Ace Hotel. Tucked away on the block-long Camden Street, you’ll be downtown without being right in the heart of the hustle. As soon as you arrive, you’ll notice the impressive interiors by local firm Shim-Sutcliffe which feature high ceilings maximizing the natural light and artfully-placed wood and concrete details—you’ll want to camp out in the lobby all day. Be sure to check out the wood-fired restaurant Alder for grilled proteins and seasonal vegetables, or the chic 14th-floor bar Evangeline for some of the city’s best cocktails.

If you’re seeking a luxe, full-service experience, look no further than Yorkville’s Four Seasons. The brand was born in Toronto in 1961 and remains headquartered there—and the iconic, know-what-you-need-before-you-do service is matched only by the spectacular citywide views from the 55-story tower. Be sure to check out the spa: it’s one of the city’s best, with a pool, top-of-the-line bespoke facials, and a wellness bar.

For another midtown five-star experience, consider the more boutique Hazelton Hotel. The rooms are spacious, averaging over 600 square feet, and serve as a perfect jumping-off point to explore the tawny Yorkville neighborhood. It’s also been repeatedly named the best hotel in Canada and sits among one of the 25 best worldwide. Be sure to check out the pool, hidden deep in the basement.

Where to Eat

For those in the know, Toronto has always been a great city for dining—something you can credit to the city’s diverse population, with large diasporic communities from places like Portugal, the Caribbean, and Vietnam. Over the past decade, it has evolved beyond just authentic beef patties and bowls of pho, however, ushering in a whole new class of young trailblazing chefs; in 2022, the city received its first Michelin guide. 

For dinner, Chef Matty Matheson’s Prime Seafood Palace is the place to grab a perfect steak and martini. The room is opulent, but without ostentation, featuring artworks from local creatives like Darby Milbrath. Around the corner on Ossington Street, you’ll find some of the best Greek food outside of Athens at Mamakas. If there’s a wait—there often is without a coveted reservation—pop up the street to Paris Paris for a glass of wine and shrimp cocktail. If you’re looking for a twinkly-lit garden and family-style food, try Bernhardt’s, which is known for its rotisserie-style chicken, or if you simply fancy a great pizza, grab a slice or pie from Pizzeria Badiali.

If you find yourself a little further uptown in Yorkville, try Mimi Chinese or Osteria Giulia, which bring some hipper downtown vibes to the more traditional midtown neighborhood. Just a pleasant stroll away, you’ll find the burgeoning Harbord Street strip with the French-inspired wine bar Dreyfus, the polished, yet casual Parquet, and the Italian-minded Piano Piano.

There’s more to life than dinner, of course, and with the city’s walkability you’ll need to refuel during the day. For brunch, Dundas West has the ever-popular Milou where you can grab a BLT and people-watch from the patio. Just across the street is The Federal or Fed as the locals call it, where you can order a perfect Caesar—Canada’s answer to the Bloody Mary—and plates of waffles. If you’re after something a little healthier, try Hello 123 for their seven-day-a-week plant-based brunch that goes until 4 p.m. For coffee, pop into Sam James or Larry’s Back Pocket, and for other sweet treats in the neighborhood, look to The Tuck Shop or to the entirely vegan Bad Attitude Bread. If it’s hot out, you’ll be on the hunt for ice cream, in which case, try Honey’s or Moonmilk for their innovative flavors like Ontario sweet corn and jasmine taro.

Where to Shop

No trip is complete without a few souvenirs. Head to Easy Tiger for all your quirky home goods needs, while if you’re looking for clothing, head to their sister store across the street Ease which carries cult indie brands like KkCo and Nu Swim. Further down the block is consignment store VSP where you can often score mint-condition vintage pieces from designers like Dries Van Noten and The Row. Design lovers, meanwhile, should make a beeline for the minimally-minded AAVVGG where you’ll find minimalist furniture, glassware, and denim. And finally, if you’re looking for something to flick through on your flight home, head to Flying Books, a local publisher and bookshop where you’ll find the latest reads, classics with the best covers, and plenty of work from Toronto-based authors.

What to Do

If you’re in need of a workout while staying in the city, head to Jaybird on Queen Street for a challenging hot pilates or yoga-inspired burn. If you’re in the mood for something with more intensity try a spin class at Ride where the playlists are intense and EDM-heavy. And if it’s pop and hip-hop hits you’re into, Spokehaus has plenty of themed rides and upbeat soundtracks to match. 

If your skin could use a freshen after a long flight, Formula Fig offers ultra high-tech facials that all run under 30 minutes and carry impressively lasting results. For all your nail needs, look to Your Majesty’s Pleasure where a pedicure comes with cocktails, or to Naked if you’re looking for more elaborate nail art. Sweat and Tonic, meanwhile, is a one-stop shop for classes and massages, and comes with an infrared sauna and massages as well as a great smoothie bar.

If you’re looking to take in a little culture, the Frank Gehry-designed Art Gallery of Ontario has a large collection of Canadian and international masterworks, or for something more avant-garde, try the MoCA, or Museum of Contemporary Art, that focuses on more experimental work. If you’d like to experience something live, the Tarragon, Factory, and Soulpepper theaters offer everything from brand-new plays by local writers to Shakespeare—and if you’re a cinephile, the TIFF Bell Lightbox is where you’ll find the best selection of indie and foreign programming.